Long-Tail Mud Motor Kits – Comparing the Parts

Comparing Thai long-tail mud motor kits and their parts! Should I go with the cheapest kit from Mud Skipper? What about the most expensive kit from Beaver Dam? I see a lot of YouTube videos of Swamp Runner, what about them? Swamp Runner vs Beaver Dam? Swamp Runner vs Mud Skipper? Beaver Dam vs Mud Skipper? Keep scrolling my friend….

There are many things that come into play when you start researching which long-tail mud motor kit you should get. You’re on the right path if you were able to find this article, and I’m going to try and make it quicker and easier for you to choose. With a few years of knowledge that came with owning a long tail mud motor, and the many hours of hands on experience with these three kits, I will be ranking these kits on the major parts and pieces that make up the kit. There is 7 major categories (major parts of the kits), with a maximum of 5 points earned in each category for a maximum total score of 35 points.

If you didn’t know already, there is still many more articles and YouTube videos to look through before you decide on which long-tail mud motor kit you should get. This is just the beginning. So lets move on!

Long Tail Mud Motor Parts	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
Transom Bracket	4	5	2
Engine Base	4	5	1
Coupler Housing	4	5	4
Long-Tail Shaft	3	4	3
Propellers	4	5	4
Tiller Handle	3	5	3
Throttle Lever	3	5	3
Total	25 out of 35	34 out of 35	20 out of 35

Transom Bracket – Look at the differences in size and quality
Engine Base – There is two major styles and one does not work as well as the other…
Coupler Housing – Different looks along with different materials
Long-tail shaft – 85″ or 100″ and what bushings do you want with that?
Propellers – Regular, Weedless, Performance?
Tiller Handle – Straight or Bent? Depends how you ride it
Throttle Lever – Am I reaching full throttle?

1. Transom Brackets

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Inside Mounting Height	3.5″	2.75″	4″
b. Length	7″	6.5″	6″
c. Biting Depth	2.875″	2.5″	2.94″
d. Weight	10.25 lbs	6.25 lbs	6.75 lbs
e. Lip	0″	.5″	1″
f. Grease Fittings	Yes	Yes	Yes
g. Construction	1/2″ Stamped Steel	1/4″ Angle Welded to 1/4″ Flat Stock Steel	1/4″ Stamped Steel
Overall	Heavily Built	Small & Strong	Thin and Bendable
Score	4	5	2

Transom Bracket Overview

If you want to see more in depth pictures and angles of these long-tail mud motor kits, watch the video here. I scored Swamp Runner first with 5 points, Beaver Dam second with 4 points, and Mud Skipper last with 2 points.

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – Not too heavy (weighs the least) not too big. Made of angle iron and flat stock welded together (stronger than stamped steel). Has enough of a gimbal lip to fit a more angled transom. If you have a very thick transom, with 2.5″ of biting depth, it may not fit; but will fit the majority of the boats its put on.

Beaver Dam – 4 out of 5 points – I would say it has the most mounting surface, and is made out of 1/2 inch steel. Even though it is stamped steel, I would like to think it would still be hard to bend. Very heavy (over 10lbs), that could be a positive (heavy normally comes with strength on this one) or negative (you don’t want more weight than needed on your boat), so I’ll stay neutral on that, but having no lip on the gimbal can limit you to only using it on transoms without a steep angle (Tracker is normally fine, but Alumacrafts have a very angled transom) so thats where I took one point away.

Mud Skipper – 2 out of 5 points – The one thing this bracket has going for it, is that it has the most biting depth. Other than that, it is made out of 1/4 inch steel, like the Swmap Runner, but it is stamped steel. Just from clamping it on and testing it, it has already bent. It has a 1 inch lip on the gimbal which may add too much angle, and the nuts that are welded onto it, are angled down, adding to the severity of it bending out and away from the transom when tightening it.

Guide

a. Inside Mounting Height – With the bracket on the boat, measured from the top of transom to bottom of transom bracket.
b. Length – From one side of the bracket to the other side
c. Biting Depth – The measurement from inside to inside. The maximum thickness of a transom the bracket would fit on if bolted through.
d. Weight – How heavy the transom bracket weights in pounds.
e. Lip – How tall the gimbal hole sits above the top of the transom mount. The higher it sits the less efficient it is, but not having enough can cause mounting issues.
f. Grease Fittings – For greasing the gimbal hole that the motor mount/gimbal swivels in.
g. Construction – What the bracket is constructed of.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Engine Base and Transom Mount

Beaver Dam (CLP) Mud Runners DIY Long-tail Mud Motor Kit 8-hp to 16-hp Transom Bracket

Mud Skipper (CKS) Long-tail Mud Motor Kit 8-hp to 16-hp Transom Bracket

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Gimbal Pin with Cotter Key

Beaver Dam Mud Runners (CLP) DIY Long-tail Mud Motor Kit 8-hp to 16-hp Transom Bracket

Mud Skipper Long-tail Mud Motor Kit 8-hp to 16-hp Transom Bracket

2. Engine Base

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Left and Right Handed	Yes	Yes	No – Only right handed
b. Style	Regular Gimal	Regular Gimbal	Door Hinge
c. Gimbal Pivot Points	Metal Sleeve	Sealed Ball Bearing	N/A
d. Grease Fittings	Yes	Yes	No
e. Construction	1/2″ Steel	1/2″ Steel	1/4″ Steel
Overall	Very Good	Great	Poor
Score	4	5	1

Engine Base Overview

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – This just seems to have more than the others. It has sealed ball bearings, strong tiller handle mounts, grease fittings everywhere you need them, holes to adjust the tail weight, and it even has a cotter pin at the end of gimbal pin so you don’t lose your nut if it vibrates loose (the others do not have that).

Beaver Dam – 4 out of 5 points – The only thing I took away a point for, is having a metal sleeve for the gimal to pivot on (compared to a ball bearing that Swamp Runner had), and having a very, very thin walled section of pipe/tubing where the tiller handle goes into. Still a very good engine base. You can still adjust tail weight , and it has grease fittings everywhere. Still a very good mount by the looks of it.

Mud Skipper – 1 out of 5 points – You can’t adjust tail weight with this engine base. Being able to adjust the tail weight is EVERYTHING! It is the difference between man handling a long tail, and hating every bit of it, compared to a weightless drive that is enjoyable and fun. This is what gives Thai long tail mud motors a bad name like “cheap import”. Along with that, it is only right handed (no you cant flip it over. I will show you why in the YouTube videos), and with the door hinge type style, you don’t have the same travel as the other gimbal mounts.

Guide

a. Left and Right Handed – Beaver Dam and Swamp Runner allow you to put your tiller handle on the left or right side. Mud Skipper is only right handed
b. Style – Regular Gimbal or Door Hinge. Regular allows for smoother movement and more travel. Door Hinge is tight, and doesn’t allow for any adjustment or movement.
c. Gimbal Pivot Points – What the gimbal pivots on for the up and down motion.
d. Grease Fittings – Grease fitting for gimbal pivot point and gimal pin.
e. Construction – What the gimbal and engine base are made of.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Engine Base

Beaver Dam (CLP) Mud Motor Kit 8-hp to 16-hp Engine Base and Gimbal

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit on 13-hp Predator Motor

Beaver Dam (CLP) Engine Base and Gimbal Point

Mud Skipper (CKS) Engine Base no grease fittings

3. Coupler Housing

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Construction	Aluminum	Steel	Steel
b. Length	10.5″	17.25″	10.25″
c. Shaft Connection	Two Regular bolts and Support Bracket or Wing bolts	Two Eared/Wing bolts	Two Eared/Wing bolts
d. Grease Fittings	1 x Zerk fitting	2 x Zerk fitting	1 x Grease Cup
Overall	Good	Great	Good
Score	4	5	4

Coupler Housing Overview

If you want to see more in depth pictures and angles of these long-tail mud motor kits, watch the video here. I scored Swamp Runner first with 5 points, and Mud Skipper and Beaver Dam with 4 points.

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – The longest coupler housing (allows for a longer shaft with better support), wing bolts at the end of the coupler housing to tighten the shaft in place (that way you can use your hands to tighten and not need a wrench), and a sealed ball bearing in the coupler housing (helps align and support the inner shaft)

Mud Skipper – 4 out of 5 points – The first two categories were rough, but this coupler housing did fair in this category. It is a steel coupler housing and feels strong. I feel it may be a little short (doesn’t provide the greatest support for the shaft, especially with the 100″ shaft it came with) but I haven’t heard of any complaints. It has a grease bowl to lubricate the coupler housing (I would rather have a grease fitting so I know that the grease is getting where it needs too). It does have a chrome like finish on it, so if you plan to duck hunt, you’re gonna have to paint it every year because paint does not stay on it well.

Beaver Dam – 4 out of 5 points – Beaver Dam may have over built their transom bracket, but not so much on the coupler housing. It is very light weight and short, and needs a support bracket to help support the weight of the shaft (the support bracket is supplied with the kit). At the end of the coupler housing, where you tighten the shaft into place, they supply hex head bolts (unlike the Swamp Runner kit that use wing bolts so you can tighten by hand, you have to have an adjustable wrench to tighten these down), but they do send you an extra pair of wing bolts that may fit there. They do have a grease fitting to keep it greased, but if you run in salt water you may have to worry about electrolysis (aluminum housing with steel support bracket and outer and inner shaft)?

Guide

a. Construction – What is the coupler housing made of.
b. Length – What is the overall length of the coupler housing. The longer the housing the more support it provides.
c. Shaft Connection – How you connect the shaft the coupler housing.
d. Grease Fittings – Fittings or ways to grease the coupler housing.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Coupler Housing

Beaver Dam Mud Runner DIY Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Coupler Housing (CLP)

Mud Skipper Long-tail Mud Motor 8-hp to16-hp Kit Coupler Housing (CKS)

4. Long-Tail Shaft

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Number of Bushings	5	7	7
b. Length	85″	85″	100″
c. Splined Inner Shaft	Yes	Yes	Yes
d. Grease Fittings	3 x Zerk fitting	1 x Zerk fitting	None
e. Flange Bushing Material	Metal Alloy	Polymer	Delrin
Overall	Good	Good	Good
Score	3	4	3

Long-Tail Shaft Overview

I wasn’t able to get that many pictures of the long-tail shafts in these long-tail mud motor kits. In this video here, I show the skegs pretty well and that the only difference you can see from the outside.

I scored Swamp Runner first with 4 points, and Beaver Dam and Mud Skipper tied with 3 points.

Swamp Runner – 4 out of 5 points – Seems simple, nothing extra, and just functional. The only thing I don’t particularly like is the skeg. It looks like it may catch weeds, and looks a little bigger than the others, but with that, it also wont bend easily either. Comes with a polymer flange bushing (higher quality than Delrin) and hard wood bushings that support the inner shaft

Beaver Dam – 3 out of 5 points – A very heavy shaft. This shaft is packed full of grease and weighs a considerable amount more than the other two shafts. Still a 85 inch shaft but only has a total of 5 bushings including the end flange bushing (won’t support the inner shaft as well, but also has less friction), we will see if it makes a difference when we test it on the water. It has two extra grease fittings near the flange bushing that sit in the water (those seem useless because as soon as you run the shaft in the water, those fitting will be below the water and water will be forced up passed those fittings inside the shaft). In the other two kits, water is used to cool and lubricate the lower bushings in the shaft. One thing I do like about this shaft is the skeg (I like the way it looks and it looks a little more stream lined so it may not pick up as many weeds). Comes with a “metal alloy” flange bushing which looks like a bronze bushing which should do well against weeds.

Mud Skipper – 3 out of 5 points – Pretty simple shaft. No grease fittings (maybe it doesn’t need it?), a very cheap flange bushing (made of Delrin, one of the lowest quality bushing materials in the mud motor kit world. If you get weeds wrapped up around it to where the water flow stops, it will melt and your shaft will vibrate really bad), 100 inch shaft with the same number of bushings as a Swamp Runner 85 inch shaft (again, less bushings equals less support for inner spinning shaft, but is also less friction).

Guide

a. Number of Bushings – The number of bushings that are inside the long-tail shaft to support the inner shaft that spins the propeller.
b. Length – How long the shaft is.
c. Splined Inner Shaft – Having the inner shaft splined, makes it more efficient and less noisy.
d. Grease Fittings – The number of grease fittings to grease the shaft.
e. Flange Bushing Material – The busing at the end of the shaft that you can see. It is called a flange bushing. This is the material that it is made out of.

Beaver Dam Mud Runner, Swamp Runner, Mud Skipper Tiller handle and shaft

All three kits in their packages, Beaver Dam Mud Runner, Swamp Runner, Mud Skipper

5. Propellers

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Sizes of Regular Props Available	5″, 5.5″, 6.25″, 6.5″, 7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9″, 9.5″	4″, 5″, 5.5″, 6″, 6.25″, 6.5″, 7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9″, 9.5″, 10″, 10.5″, 11″, 12″	5.5″, 6″, 6.25″, 6.5″,7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9″, 9.5″
b. Total Amount of Standard Props	10 sizes	16 sizes	10 sizes
c. Sizes of Weedless Props Available	6″, 6.5″, 7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9″, 9.5″	6.5″, 8.75″	6″, 6.5″, 7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9″, 9.5″
d. Total Amount of Weedless Props	8 sizes	2 sizes	8 sizes
e. Prop Puller Available	No	Yes	Yes
f. Performance Props	No	Yes	No
Score	4	5	4

Propeller Overview

I tried to show you the difference in the prop from each long-tail mud motor kit, but you can also watch the video here, if you want to see more of them.

I scored Swamp Runner first with 5 points, and Beaver Dam and Mud Skipper tied with 4 points.

All around the board, the standard propellers look very similar. When you get into weedless props, that is when everything starts to change and look different. So I’m scoring this section on availability and quality of the product

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – The props look great, and they have a nice polish on them. Their weedless prop looks awesome. Very hefty and sturdy looking/feeling when you pick it up and compare it to the others. They are the only ones that have props over 9.5″ and are also the only ones that have performance props. They also sell a prop remover.

Beaver Dam – 4 out of 5 points – Same variety of props as Mud Skipper, but they do not sell a prop puller. The props I received had a dull look to them and were not as polished as well as the Swamp Runner or the Mud Skipper props.

Mud Skipper – 4 out of 5 points – Same variety of props as Beaver Dam, but they sell a prop puller, and their props were polished a little better than Beaver Dam’s props.

Guide

a. Sizes of Regular Props Available – Regular props are just what you would run on a regular basis. Normally regular props are faster than the weedless props (we’ll test that out on the YouTube channel), but they do not get rid of weeds well.
b. Total Amount of Standard Props – How many different sizes are available in total.
c. Sizes of Weedless Props Available – Weedless props equals less weeds, not weed-free. Better when running through heavy vegetation but in theory are slower than regular props.
d. Total Amount of Weedless Props – How many different sizes are available in total.
e. Prop Puller Available – Do they offer a propeller puller. This tool makes it a lot easier to remove a prop.
f. Performance Props – Props that are meant for a certain purpose, like props that get you more speed or more torque.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors 8.75 Weedless Prop for the Medium Long-tail Mud Motor Kit

Mud Skipper 8 inch Weedless Prop for Thai Long-tail Mud Motors

Beaver Dam Mud Runners 7.5 inch Weedless Prop

Weedless Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Props Beaver Dam vs Swamp Runner vs Mud Skipper

Beaver Dam Mud Runners 7 inch Weedless Prop

Swamp Runner Mud Motors Easy Prop Removal Tool

Swamp Runner Mud Motors Easy PSwamp Runner Mud Motors Efficient Prop Removal Toolrop Removal Tool

Swamp Runner Mud Motors Efficient Prop Removal Tool

8.5 inch Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Props Beaver Dam vs Swamp Runner vs Mud Skipper

Swamp Runner Mud Motors 9 inch Standard Prop

Swamp Runner Mud Motors 8.5 inch Standard Prop

Swamp Runner Mud Motors 8 inch Standard Prop

Beaver Dam Mud Runners 8.5 inch Standard Prop

Beaver Dam Mud Runners 8 inch Standard Prop

Mud Skipper 8.5 inch Standard Prop for Thai Long-tail Mud Motors

Mud Skipper 7.5 inch Standard Prop for Thai Long-tail Mud Motors

6. Tiller Handles

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Standard Handle	Bent or ask for Straight (for not extra cost?)	Bent or ask for Straight (for not extra cost?)	Straight
b. Available Styles	Bent or Straight	Bent or Straight	Bent or Straight
c. Place to Run Throttle Cable	Yes	Yes	Yes
d. Place to Run Safety Kill Switch Wires	No	Yes	No
e. Place to Mount Safety Kill Switch	Yes – Hole comes pre-drilled to put eye bolt into that holds safety kill switch	Yes – Safety kill switch clamps onto handle	Yes – Safety kill switch clamps onto handle
Score	3	5	3

Tiller Handle Comparison

If you want to see more in depth pictures and angles, watch the video here.

I scored Swamp Runner first with 5 points, and Beaver Dam and Mud Skipper tied with 3 points.

You can get a bent or a straight handle in your long-tail mud motor kit. All preference. If you stand a lot, get a bent. If you sit and do long trips, then get a straight handle.

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – Swamp Runner has the only handle that has two holes in it to run both your throttle cable through and your safety kill switch wires through. That way it is hidden from sight (making it look nice and professional) and keeping it out of the elements. Another reason why I gave it all the points is because the bent handle is all around great. It does awesome for when you’re sitting and even better when you’re standing and maneuvering through obstacles.

Beaver Dam – 3 out of 5 points – It lost one point for not having a place to run the safety kill switch wires. A place to run the safety kill switch wires would be nice. Yes it is easy to drill a hole, but I feel that if you’re paying this much for a kit, you should not have to be modifying it. It would be just as simple for them to drill this hole. Another point was lost for the poor “ease of use” for the bent handle The bent handle is okay when you are standing up, it does have a high profile so if you are in heavily, wooded area where you need to stay low, it may not be the best option. When you sit down and still have to operate it, it is very, very awkward.

Mud Skipper – 3 out of 5 points – It lost one point for not having a place to run the safety kill switch wires. A place to run the safety kill switch wires would be nice. Yes it is easy to drill a hole, but I feel that if you’re paying this much for a kit, you should not have to be modifying it. It would be just as simple for them to drill this hole. Another point was lost because of the straight handle. Bot of the other kits offer the bent handle and that’s becoming the new standard. The problem with having a straight handle is that if you go over a dam or log, that long tail needs to go up pretty high, and your straight handle will bottom out on you jon boat seat and somethings gotta give, whether its your seat, handle, or motor coming off the transom.

Guide

a. Standard Handle – This is what comes standard in the kit. Beaver Dam and Swamp Runner come with bent handles. I think you can ask to swap for a straight handle if you want without any addition cost, but Mud Skipper comes with straight handle and I think you have to pay to upgrade to the bent handle.
b. Available Styles – What styles of tiller handles are available. All three offer straight and bent handles.
c. Place to Run Throttle Cable – Is there a hole in the handle to run the throttle cable through so it is hidden from view and protected from the elements.
d. Place to Run Safety Kill Switch Wires – Is there another hole in the handle, besides the throttle cable hole, to run the wires from the safety kill switch through so it is hidden from view and protected from the elements.
e. Place to Mount Safety Kill Switch – Is there a place on the tiller handle to mount the safety kill switch without modifying the handle.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Tiller Handle

Beaver Dam Mud Runner Z bar Handle for DIY Long-tail Mud Motor Kit

Mud Skipper Straight Tiller Handle for Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit

7. Throttle Lever

	Beaver Dam	Swamp Runner	Mud Skipper
a. Style	Brake Lever Type	Brake Lever Type	Thumb Throttle
b. Full Throttle Travel	No	Yes	Yes
c. Return to Idle Speed	Yes	Yes	No – Have to Modify
d. Ease of Use	A little bit of a reach	Comfortable	Uncomfortable
Score	3	5	3

Throttle Lever Comparison

If you want to see more in depth pictures and angles, watch the video here.

I scored Swamp Runner first with 5 points, and Beaver Dam and Mud Skipper tied with 3 points.

Just from my experience, a thumb throttle is nice when you are sitting down and the tiller handle is right under your arm or parallel with it. It works good for long runs. A brake lever type works good when you are standing and you have to reach down to the tiller handle. It is positional so you can change it to your liking. A thumb throttle is stationary and does not have the ability of being positional.
I know that Swamp Runner has a racing thumb throttle and the brake lever throttle for you long-tail mud motor kit, you can choose the one for your application. Mud Skipper also has a different choice.

Swamp Runner – 5 out of 5 points – The main thing I like about this throttle, is that I have the full travel of my engine’s throttle. I have my low idle speed and I can also hit wide open. The grip and throttle brake lever are very comfortable and easy to work along with a great response from engine to throttle lever.

Beaver Dam – 3 out of 5 points – Beaver Dam lost one point due to the fact that you cant get the full travel of the throttle. To be able to hit the full open throttle you have to set the throttle lever higher on your idle side so you never get to idle speed. Its difficult to explain, but you can either have; full throttle with a very high idle, or have your regular idle speed without being able to open up the throttle all the way. Another point was lost because due to ease of use. If you are on and off the throttle, you really have to reach those fingers to get out to that lever, and at times, it just gets annoying.

Mud Skipper – 3 out of 5 points – Mud Skipper seems to give you the cheapest throttle lever you could find. This corrodes fairly quickly and you have to modify it. One point was taken away because you have to open it up and remove the washer inside of it so it will return to idle speed. There was nothing in the directions about this, but I already knew that this thumb throttle had issues from doing some research on the forums and from prior knowledge. Another point was taken away because of how cheap it was and how uncomfortable it is. This throttle did not move smoothly when I got it and after having it on the boat a while it definitely didn’t get any better.

Guide

a. Style – There are two major styles; Brake Lever and Thumb Throttle. As a rule of thumb, a thumb throttle is more comfortable when sitting and your arm is parallel with the tiller handle and throttle. If you are standing, and you are reaching down and maneuvering the tiller handle that way, normally the brake lever style will be more comfortable.
b. Full Throttle Travel – Your engine has a throttle that travels a certain distance. From idle speed to full throttle. I am using these kits on a 13-hp 420-cc Predator engine.
c. Return to Idle Speed – Does the throttle lever return back to idle speed when it is release. This can also be adjusted at the motor.
d. Ease of Use – Is the throttle lever easy to use.

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Tiller Handle and Throttle

Swamp Runner Mud Motors (SPS) Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Tiller Handle, Throttle, and Safety Kill Switch

Beaver Dam Mud Runner Bent Z Tiller Handle for Thai Long-tail Mud Motor

Beaver Dam Mud Runner Throttle Lever on Bent Z Tiller Handle for Thai Long-tail Mud Motor

Mud Skipper Throttle Lever on Tiller Handle for Thai Long-tail Mud Motor Kit

Conclusion

If you made it this far, and you’ve read the whole article, I would first like to thank you for reading it; and I hope you enjoyed it. I put a fair amount of time into it and I hope I was able to help you become more informed, or more interested in Thai long-tail mud motor kits. I would never recommend trying to build a long tail mud motor from scratch. Buy a kit, save a lot of time and some money, and become part of the community where you can ask questions and learn. If you’re up to it, help someone else out with their questions if you can.

The YouTube channel will have a load of videos on long-tail mud motors, along with my experiences with them, as they grow. Do your research by; watching some videos, going to the TLT Mud Motor Page, visiting the forums, and contacting the long-tail mud motor brand you want to go with, then ask away!

There will be many more articles pertaining to long-tail mud motor kits. This is just the beginning of 2018….

Beaver Dam Mud Runners – CLP

Most expensive kit at $549 + shipping

Swamp Runner Mud Motors – SPS

Middle Price kit at $499 + shipping

Mud Skipper – CKS

Least Expensive kit at $395 + shipping

Long-Tail Mud Motor Kits – Comparing the Parts